Surfboards and surf accessories

I started surfing in the late 1970s, Thrusters were just coming out around that time. I really didn’t realize how important surfboard shape was and how much the shape of your surfboard had to do with the way you surfed. For some reason I thought I could surf well on any board in any condition.

Well after 30 years of surfing, I have owned probably 50 surfboards. You name it I owned it. When I lived and surfed in Hawaii I tried several shapes of surfboards. I like a surfboard that gives me plenty of float, thats easy to catch waves and one that I can just slam the lip. Not all surfboards did this for me. Of course it can have plenty to do with your ability and the wave you are trying to surf.